Archive for category: About Sake

Have you every wondered what kind of sake is best suited to your personality? Well now is your chance to find out! Take this SAKE PERSONALITY QUIZ and learn what type of sake is best for you!

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I’ve been on the lookout for a sake bar that could become my “Cheers“. You know – “where they they always know your name…” Sake Bar Hagi has been on the short list since our first visit last September and a recent trip there made Hagi’s a front runner!

There’s a lot going for this place: The Time’s Square location is central, the service is friendly, the japanese bar snacks are yummy, and the atmosphere is casual. The one thing that impressed me the most, however, were the offerings on the seasonal sake menu. I discovered on this visit that Hagi was offering three Autumn Namas. Namas made for the Fall are much less common, so I was excited to find them at Hagi.

Nama of course is unpasteurized sake (sometimes called “draft” sake). It’s usually produced seasonally for the spring and is extremely perishable so it’s meant to be consumed quickly. These springtime Nama sakes are known for the expansive fresh, alive flavor. Autumn Namas seem to me to have an earthier, huskier countenance while still having a unique “alive” dimension that all namas provide.

The first sake I tried was Urakasumi Hiyaoroshi (“Misty Bay” Miyagi Prefecture, SMV +1.5, Acidity 1.4). This sake came across as quite fruity, although my initial reaction was that it tasted one-sided and one dimensional. This point aside, I found it quite delicious, with a hint of nama freshness, but more subdued that what you would find in a springtime nama.

Next I had some of Scott’s Wakatake Onikoroshi Akino ki-Ippon (“Demon Slayer, Shizuoka Prefecture. SMV +1, Acidity 1.4). Hello badboy! This nama was bigger, bolder and brasher than the Urakasumi. I felt a little scratch from noticeable alcohol on the finish. This sake is a more in-your-face nama with fuller and rounder flavor. My favorite tonight.

Last but not least, I enjoyed the Wakaebitsu Gizaemon (“Young Smile, Mie Prefecture, SMV +2, Acidity 1.6). This third selection came across as earthy and sharp. On the palate, there were hints of softer fruit… could have been pear & apple as the tasting notes suggested, but quite mild fruits in any case.

Scott’s comment on the Wakaebitsu: Strong Grape Jolly Rancher notes. hmm.

These autumn namas were all really enjoyable. Now, the only issue I can see is that the rest of New York seems to have discovered this place, too, so the waits can be long. Obviously, I think the wait is worth it. Otherwise, just get there well before or after the 8pm rush.

Well, above and beyond everything else, I think the one thing that made me feel like Hagi could be my “Cheers” was seeing the guy who passed out at the bar next to me. Ahhh… welcome home.

One of the really surprising things about the study of Sake is that once you think you know something, you find out, you really know nothing at all. Yes, Sake can humble you in this way. Whatever you’ve learned, there is always more to explore. “Kan Sake” or “warmed sake” is one of these areas. Conventional wisdom says that only cheap, poorly produced sake is heated as warming masks the uneven flavors. Usually it’s piping hot and tastes like jetfuel… Right? Anyone who as seen Star Trek II knows how Captain Kirk feels about it.

Well, as with all things sake it’s just not that simple. Kan Sake is a vast subject but I made some inroads into this world last week when I attended another Sake Seminar at Cha-an Tea House.

Again, this lesson on warm sake was facilitated by our friend Chizuko-san, sake sommelier at the amazing Sakagura restaurant and Sake Bar. Unfortunately, the November weather was not coordinating with the theme. It was a somewhat warmer and humid evening in NY and I wasn’t looking forward to 5 courses of steaming hot sake. My fears however were completely unfounded.

I found the evening too be delicious and I found myself to be a new and unlikely fan of heated nihonshu! How did this happen? Well, The evening was artfully arranged by Chizuko-san to showcase the very best of what heated sake is all about. Simply stated, it was a revelation.

Let’s review the individual Sakes presented and how they each stood up to warming.

We started with a real top notch pick right out of the gate. It was Yuki No Bosha Daiginjo (ALC 15%, SMV +2, Acidity 1.5, Seimaibuai 35%, Akita Prefecture.)

Chizuko-san described the sweetness fo the Yuki No Bosha Daiginjo as having a sweetness suggestive of warm milk with honey – and I couldn’t agree more. The warmed honey flavor really came through. It was delicious. Another important note about this sake is it’s richness. The rich deep flavor allows this sake’s rice flavor to come through despite the gentle warming.

Please also take note, this is a Daiginjo!! Prevailing advice is to never, ever, ever heat a delicate daiginjo, but in this case – it really works. delightful – and how often do you get a heated Daiginjo? try it!

The next sake was a surprise! We were honored to have Mr. Yamamoto from the Yamamoto sake brewery make an unannounced visit and share a real treat with us.

We had the pleasure of trying the Matsu No Midori Junmai Daiginjo (ALC 15.8%, SMV +5, Acidity 1.3, Kyoto Prefecture). This sake was very enjoyable, indeed. To me, it had a somewhat deeper flavor than the previous Daiginjo. The higher SMV also indicated to me that Matsu No Midori was slightly drier. At this point I was starting to feel spoiled drinking all this heated Daiginjo sake. I mean, usually, it’s a no-no, but all bets were off for tonight.

By this point I was feeling really good and was ready for our Third sake. We were treated to Kamoizumi Shusen Junmai Ginjo (“Three Dots”, ALC 16%, SMV +1, Acidity 1.6 Seimaibuai 58%, Hiroshima Prefecture)

I have heard before that “Three Dots” is a good sake for warming, and now I understand why. For me, this sake was tinged slightly yellow, but tasted nice and smooth with a distinct earthiness that lent itself well to heating. That earthiness was a woody mushroomy flavor that tasted so cozy.

An important note about this brew is the lack of familiar floral tones you might know from other junmai Ginjos. Chizuko-san told us, this sake was created by the brewery to have that “back to nature” quality. It may not be everyone’s taste, but I sure loved it. Like a camping trip in a glass!

The fourth sake was Dewazakura Izumijudan Ginjo (“Tenth Degree” ALC 17.5% SMV +12, Acidity 1.4, Seimaibuai 50%, Yamagata Prefecture)

Anyone who reads my blog regularly knows I’m a huge fan of Yamagata sake after I went to a special tasting that focused on that region. Dewazakura is perhaps the most well known brewery from this region. Above all, this Izumijudan Ginjo is a really dry sake that keeps it’s distinct try gin-like character even through a gentle heating.

Onward and upward! The fifth sake was the The Masumi Yamahai Ginjo (“Winter Yamahai”, ALC 15%, SMV +2, Acidity 1.9, Seimaibuai 55%, Nagano Prefecture). We learned that this sake was crafted especially to be heated. I found it to have a pure, rich yet smooth flavor.

I didn’t detect much of a nose at all and the tail I would describe as “barely there”. But while on that palate, this Yamahai is a full-bodied-people-pleaser.

Our second to last sake was the delicious Akitabare Koshiki Junzukuri Junmai (“Northern Skies”, ALC 14.5%, SMV +1.5, Acidity 1.55, Seimaibuai 60%, Akita Prefecture). The Akitabare we tried also lacked much of an aroma, but the flavor was rich and bold. This junmai was served headed to 122°F. It’s interesting to note that this sake is that the rice is grown locally and the yeast is produced in the brewery itself which gives this sake a special Terroir.

The final sake was one I was expecting and happy to see at a “warmed sake” evening. Last but not least we enjoyed Shichi Hon Yari Junmai (“The Seven Spearsmen” ALC 15.5%, SMV +4, Acidity 1.5, Seimaibuai 60%, Shiga Prefecture)

This is a delightful Junmai to enjoy everyday with no frills or fancy affect. It is one of the few sakes that can be heated to a higher temperature – up to 140°F and still taste great. The light dryness of the sake evokes it’s aim to be a simple treat. The Tomita Sake brewery is well known and it’s history dates back to the time of the Samurai. When heated the flavor greatly expands and warms you really from the inside out. Warning: this sake can be highly addictive!

Last but not least, Chizuko-san gave us a very handy temperature chart for heated and chilled sake which you can find below. as you can see there are many gradations of sake based on temperature. Next time you order your sake and the server asks “hot or cold?” You can answer you’d like your sake “Nuru-kan”. You’ll know for sure if they are hot…. or not. Enjoy

I’ve been a hard working sake-geek lately and you’ll see in the navigation links above, I published some new pages on my blog that I hope everyone will find interesting and/or useful!

1) Tim’s Sake Database. I’ve started a database to record all the sakes I taste. I only have about 20 sakes in there now, but I will definitely add more as time allows. Since tasting recommendations can be so subjective, I’m using both a Gauntner-style “tasting profile” chart as well as a totally biased score of 1-5 based on my personal review. Also, each page will record whatever technical data I can gather on each sake such as SMV, ALC percentage, Prefecture, etc.

2) Sake Basics. I thought it would be fun to put together a “Sake 101” page that covers all the basics for people who are just getting started. Please check out my animated Seimaibuai (a.k.a. rice milling percentage)! Did I mention I’m a sake-geek?

3) NYC Sake Resources. Duh! I should have done this a long time ago. “Saké and the City…” This is a simple listing of sake resources, links, shops and restaurants that i’ve come across in New York City. I’ll add to this as I visit other cities or when I find new and exciting sake resources.

Enjoy and let me know what you think!

S. alerted me to an article in the New York Times about Nigori Sake. It’s still not my favorite kind of Sake, but there is a lot there to be explored. I’ve had it about 3 times. it tastes a little “fermented” to me right now, but I may have had some inferior quality. S. of course says he love Nigori – so as usual, he’s ahead of the curve of a foodie trend.

Here is the gist of the article…

(c) New York Times
ONLINE SHOPPER
For Sake’s Sweet Sake

By MICHELLE SLATALLA
Published: November 17, 2005
OVER the years my husband has tinkered with many exotic drinks. We survived his zombie phase, the summer of mangrove smashes and what I now think of as a dark period he devoted entirely to mixing the ingredients of a Manhattan in unnatural proportions.

Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
THE BIG POUR As a sign of generosity, the nigori sake overflows the glass.

Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
RICE LIQUOR Sho Chiku Bai is made from melted Sierra Nevada snow and Sacramento Valley rice.

Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
MADE IN THE U.S.A. Momokawa Pearl, says the Web site, is “wonderful with chocolate or as a dessert.”

He has filled our liquor cabinet with parrot-colored liquors like Midori, and he has served dinner guests large choke-provoking quantities of muddled mint. It was only a matter of time before he discovered nigori sake.
Soon after we moved to Northern California he got a tip that Sushi Ran, a well-known Japanese restaurant in Sausalito, served 30 kinds of sake. So we rushed over, waited an hour for a table and then settled in to do some serious research. My husband scanned the list of fermented rice liquors, pointed to his choice, and within minutes the waiter returned bearing two small glasses that sat inside open square boxes.
He poured from a large bottle. Milky white liquid overflowed the glasses into the boxes in a Japanese gesture of generosity. We took a sip – it tasted like chilled pineapple – and then another, which reminded me of coconut.
There was a look in my husband’s eye that was familiar. It was the look he gave me the night we met. I realized that all I had to do to forestall a return of the mangrove smashes was to keep a steady supply of nigori sake in the refrigerator.
The only problem was finding it in a store. Although cloudy unfiltered sake has been steadily growing in popularity in the United States over the last 10 years, it still accounts for only a small percentage of the sake market, manufacturers say. Nigori sake, whose sweetness is a good foil for spicy food, remains unfamiliar to many who are used to drinking warm filtered sake.
Since nigori sake has a shorter shelf life than filtered sake – the rice sediment at the bottom spoils quickly if bottles are not properly stored at cool temperatures – I wondered whether I would even be able to find it for sale online.
Once again I had underestimated the Internet. A key word search for nigori sake turned up sites like 00sake.com, which sells imported Nikko Kirifuri (described as “soft and mild taste, very thick nigori sake compared to others”) for $18 a bottle, and Winespecialist.com, which sells imported Ozeki nigori sake (“preserves the fresh flavor of the moromi – the fermenting mixture of rice, water, koji and yeast – for a crisp, vibrant presence”) for $7.99 a bottle.
And Bevmo.com, the Internet arm of a bricks-and-mortar retail chain called Beverages & More, sells imported Rihaku nigori sake Dreamy Clouds (“superb with halibut over a toss of fresh spinach and mild sweet red onions”) for $14.99 a bottle and Tozai nigori sake Voices in the Mist (“a hint of anise”) for $21.99 a bottle.
My choices were many. To get advice on how to narrow the field I phoned Sushi Ran’s owner, Yoshi Tome, who is also the president of the Northern California Japanese Restaurant Association.
“I heard you are the top expert in California,” I said just to be cordial and not because I was hoping to get a table faster the next time I go to Sushi Ran.
“If somebody is recommending me, maybe I should take the credit,” Mr. Tome said courteously, but he did not ask me to repeat my last name for future reference.
“When buying nigori sake, what should a shopper look for?” I asked.
“Be very careful to ask first about how it is stored,” he said. “In Japan a good sake brewery puts a date on the bottles. Ask if it is kept refrigerated. It tends to sour very quickly.”
“How do you avoid that problem at your restaurant?” I asked.
“I’ve had many occasions, more than one or two, when I tasted it, and the sake was bad,” he said. “Occasionally we do bring in a premium imported nigori sake from Japan, but right now on the menu we have two kinds, both made nearby in the United States.”
The two locally brewed brands Mr. Tome serves are SakeOne’s Momokawa Pearl nigori sake (“wonderful with chocolate or as a dessert,” according to sakeone.com, where it costs $10 a bottle) and Takara’s Sho Chiku Bai nigori sake (available at Winespecialist.com for $4.95 for a small bottle and at 00sake.com for $18 for the much larger bottle, which you will wish you had bought if you don’t).
Takara Sake USA Inc., an offshoot of the parent company in Japan, has since 1984 made nigori sake at its plant in Berkeley, Calif., near where I live. It seemed necessary to visit.
There I was met by Masatoshi Ohata, the general manager for marketing, who gave me a tour of the company’s historical sake museum, where 10,000 visitors a year view exhibits that explain traditional 19th-century methods of fermenting, pressing (which in those days required huge boulders) and filtering rice to make sake.
Mr. Ohata said that in the last decade the popularity of Takara’s nigori sake has steadily grown and now accounts for about 8 percent of the 600,000 cases the company sells each year in this country.
“But in Japan it is not as popular because they like sake that is dry, not so sweet or rich,” he said. “In Japan they are surprised that we can sell nigori sake in the big bottles here.”
“What makes your nigori sake taste like tropical fruit?” I asked.
“The fermented rice is very important for the taste,” Mr. Ohata said. “We make it with water from the snow in the Sierra Nevada and very good rice from the Sacramento Valley.”
I went home excited to face a future that did not include zombies, long-handled glass stirrers or maraschino cherries.
My husband said he was excited too about working out the kinks in a new cocktail he was developing.
With a sinking feeling I asked what it was called.
“A nigori colada,” he said.

(c) New York Times